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Collection

Canedy Family Hair album, 1863

1 volume

This small hand-made volume contains 24 locks of men and women's hair, some of them tied with ribbon, braided, or looped. While its creator is not indicated, internal evidence suggests that Maryette Canedy of Northfield, Minnesota, likely compiled the booklet in 1863, to document friends and relatives in Minnesota and Vermont. A pencil, colored pencil, and ink illustration of a woman holding a bouquet of flowers is pasted on the front cover. Its inscription includes "Miss Emely [Shurpy?] drawing," her residence in Northfield, Minnesota, and the date of January 25, 1863.

This small hand-made volume contains 24 locks of men and women's hair, some of them tied with ribbon, braided, or looped. While its creator is not indicated, internal evidence suggests that Maryette Canedy of Northfield, Minnesota, likely compiled the booklet in 1863, to document friends and relatives in Minnesota and Vermont. A pencil, colored pencil, and ink illustration of a woman holding a bouquet of flowers is pasted on the front cover. Its inscription includes "Miss Emely [Shurpy?] drawing," her residence in Northfield, Minnesota, and the date of January 25, 1863.

Each lock of hair is accompanied by one or more of the following types of information:
  • The name of the individual who provided the hair.
  • The place the person lived, such as Stanford [i.e. Stamford, Vermont]; Wilmington, [Vermont]; North Adams, [Massachusetts]; and Northfield, Minnesota.
  • Short sayings or further identifying information. For example, the entries for Charles C. Phipps, Anna Phipps, and Anna Canedy mention their relationship to the compiler: grandfather, grandmother, and mother, respectively.
  • The age of the individual when the clipping was taken.

Maryette Canedy's hair sample is missing.

Collection

C. E. Hartung & Company collection, 1868-1879

7 items

The collection consists of two letters and five empty envelopes written between 1868 to 1879 by various businesses relating to human hair goods and services. They are addressed to C. E. Hartung & Company, hair importers and dealers of New York.

The collection consists of two letters and five empty envelopes written between 1868 to 1879 by various businesses relating to human hair goods and services. They are addressed to C. E. Hartung & Company, hair importers and dealers of New York. The two letters include one written on May 5, 1870, by H. Holcomb, "Manufacturer and Dealer in Human Hair Goods" of Galesburg, Illinois, on printed, illustrated stationery featuring a white woman with curled hair. He acknowledged he would not be able to pay his bill on time. The other was written by A. Domec, an importer of human hair from Louisville, Kentucky, ordering hair products. All of the envelopes in the collection are advertising covers for the various hair businesses.

The empty envelopes date from 1868 to 1879, with several undated.

Businesses represented in the envelopes addressed to Hartung include:
  • Madame Zwick of Cincinnati, Ohio, "Ladies' Wig Store, Braids, Fronts, Curls &c. All kinds of hair jewelry done to order. The Hair furnished by customers always used, and the Gold warranted."
  • N. Demongeot of Washington, D.C., "Importer of Human Hair and Perfumery, Ladies Hair Dresser and Wig Maker."
  • Mrs. M. Survey of Utica, New York, "Manufacturer of all kinds of Ornamental Hair Work."
  • J. Y. Smyth of Peoria, Illinois, "Manufacturer and Dealer in Human Hair, at Wholesale and Retail."

Collection

C. E. Hartung & Company collection, 1868-1879

7 items

The collection consists of two letters and five empty envelopes written between 1868 to 1879 by various businesses relating to human hair goods and services. They are addressed to C. E. Hartung & Company, hair importers and dealers of New York.

The collection consists of two letters and five empty envelopes written between 1868 to 1879 by various businesses relating to human hair goods and services. They are addressed to C. E. Hartung & Company, hair importers and dealers of New York. The two letters include one written on May 5, 1870, by H. Holcomb, "Manufacturer and Dealer in Human Hair Goods" of Galesburg, Illinois, on printed, illustrated stationery featuring a white woman with curled hair. He acknowledged he would not be able to pay his bill on time. The other was written by A. Domec, an importer of human hair from Louisville, Kentucky, ordering hair products. All of the envelopes in the collection are advertising covers for the various hair businesses.

The empty envelopes date from 1868 to 1879, with several undated.

Businesses represented in the envelopes addressed to Hartung include:
  • Madame Zwick of Cincinnati, Ohio, "Ladies' Wig Store, Braids, Fronts, Curls &c. All kinds of hair jewelry done to order. The Hair furnished by customers always used, and the Gold warranted."
  • N. Demongeot of Washington, D.C., "Importer of Human Hair and Perfumery, Ladies Hair Dresser and Wig Maker."
  • Mrs. M. Survey of Utica, New York, "Manufacturer of all kinds of Ornamental Hair Work."
  • J. Y. Smyth of Peoria, Illinois, "Manufacturer and Dealer in Human Hair, at Wholesale and Retail."

Collection

Hair documents, ephemera, and prints collection, 1717-ca. 1990 (majority within ca. 1770-1890)

2 boxes

The Hair documents, ephemera, and prints collection is comprised of 103 items, mostly printed materials related to hair, shaving, and wigs. Included are ephemeral advertisements, trade cards and price lists, government acts relating to hair and wigs, manuscript letters and indentures, caricatures and cartoons, broadsides, sheet music, other miscellaneous prints, and one braided lock of hair.

The Hair Documents, Ephemera, and Prints collection is comprised of 103 items, mostly printed materials related to hair, shaving, and wigs. Included are ephemeral advertisements, trade cards and price lists, government acts from British monarchs George II and George III relating to hair and wigs, manuscript letters and indentures, caricatures and cartoons, broadsides, sheet music, other miscellaneous prints, and one braided lock of hair. The material spans from 1717 to the late 1980s, with the bulk of materials dating from the late eighteenth century to the end of the nineteenth century. A majority of the materials are from England, although some are from Belgium, France, Switzerland, and Scotland. Many of the items are satirical and are commentary on fashion and the idea that the local barber was the "jack of all trades." Two similar items, a comical manuscript resume of "Isaac Morgan" and a fictitious advertisement for the varied services of "Isaac Factotum" offer exaggerated illustrations of how a barber did more than cut hair. Of interest is a series of mid-nineteenth century Valentines which center around the love-lives of barbers. Also included is a letter from Alex Campbell to his relative John Campbell, the Cashier of the Royal Bank of Scotland during the Jacobite rising of 1745. There is also sheet music from the composer (Franz) Joseph Haydn (1732-1809), A Pastoral Song, better known as My Mother bids me bind my hair. Of note are prints by British satirists William Hogarth, Isaac and George Cruikshank, and Thomas Rowlandson.

Collection

James V. Mansfield papers, 1859-1933 (majority within 1862-1864)

29 volumes and 13 loose items

The James V. Mansfield papers include 27 volumes of bound letters and 2 account books. With the exception of two letters, each volume contains the outgoing correspondence of Mansfield, who was a "writing medium" by profession, and a prominent member of the spiritualist movement during the mid- to late-nineteenth century. The letters were sent to his wife and children in Chelsea, Massachusetts, when he lived in San Francisco, California, for two years. His letters provide detailed description of Civil War era San Francisco, and are an excellent source of common attitudes regarding women and various ethnic groups. Two alphabetized account books contain unfinished entries on his séances from December 24, 1860, to March 26, 1883.

The James V. Mansfield papers amount to approximately 10,000 pages of outgoing correspondence to his wife and children in Chelsea, Massachusetts. Spanning from March 7, 1862, to June 3, 1864, the letters cover Mansfield's journey to, as well as his two-year stay in, San Francisco, California. The collection's historical significance, however, is largely derived from Mansfield's meticulous recording of major events that occurred during this period, such as news of Civil War battles, earthquakes, and the S.S. Golden Gate disaster, and from his detailed descriptions of the cultural milieu of San Francisco between 1862 and 1864.

In his first journal, Mansfield recounts his journey from New York City to San Francisco. He traveled aboard the ship the North Star until he reached the Isthmus of Panama, and then continued the rest of his journey on the Sonora. He describes the deplorable conditions on the overly crowded ships, including shortages of food and clean drinking water, and flea and bedbug infestations in the sleeping quarters. He also reports his first impressions of San Francisco, such as the general appearance and attitudes of the people, as well as the climate and geography.

His correspondence is particularly instrumental in illuminating the social conditions and cultural life of San Francisco. Mansfield describes the diverse array of people he encountered, social attitudes, and ethnic tensions. In addition to indigenous peoples of California, immigrants from Mexico, China, Ireland, and Germany were all living in the city in substantial numbers. Those from China and Ireland comprised the largest immigrant groups that he observed. A large number of people had also traveled from the East Coast or the southern states to San Francisco. Some of these newcomers found work as miners or servants. Like Mansfield, most New Englanders came to California with the intention of staying only for a short period of time before returning home.

Although San Francisco was far removed from the operations of the Civil War, the people felt the impact of Confederate and Union victories and defeats. Likewise, Mansfield was deeply concerned by the war, and records his impressions of the news of battles as it was reported in San Francisco. Though California was part of the Union, Mansfield witnessed discrimination against free African Americans and frequently encountered anti-Union sentiments. He notes, "…they will not for a long time submit to allow the colored man or woman the same rights, same privileges as they themselves claim a Strong Southern feeling is Evident on the face of things here…" 19: 224. He provides examples of African Americans being barred from privileges the white people enjoyed, such as not being able to ride on steam engines and in horse carriages. One such case was brought before a municipal judge, who decided in favor of African Americans, granting them the right to use public transportation. Although such victories were possible in Civil War era San Francisco, racial segregation remained prevalent.

Mansfield observed vast differences between New Englanders and the people in California. Of the latter he writes, "…they are a hard set of people driving on from 4 oclock in the morning till 10 or 12 oclock at night, their general appearance is of Brown Complexion long hair, long whiskers and not more than one in 4 Ever shave; so you can imagine what for a looking people they are and all invariably Chew & Smoke Tobaco and drink the meanest Kinds of Whiskey. Consequently they swear much and their word is usually not worth a fig either…" 12: 115-116. Throughout the 27 journals, he provides a substantial amount of commentary on the indigenous people of California and Native Americans in general, of which his opinion is also not high. He thought Native Americans deliberately interfered with mail sent overland, especially when he had not received his wife's letters: "…the mails are to be conveyed by steam and not overland -- you see the trouble the Indians gave the mail carriers…" 1: 16-17. He did, however, recognize the atrocities white people committed against them, and later admitted that the Native Americans were not at fault for poor mail service.

Mansfield also provides a great deal of commentary on gender, noting differences between women on the East Coast and in San Francisco, especially in terms of appearance and dress. He was very conscious of feminine beauty, and was quick to note the physical aspect of a woman he encountered, and whether or not she was sufficiently attractive. He describes women from different ethnic backgrounds, including Chinese and Irish immigrant women. A great number of the former worked as prostitutes, while the latter were overwhelmingly employed as servants. In several instances, he discusses the hard life such women endured, especially those who worked as domestic servants. He also notes differences between the ways in which "Western" and "Eastern" women are treated, especially after noticing public displays of subservience among Chinese women.

Perhaps one of the most remarkable aspects of San Francisco was its markets. Mansfield found a variety of foods in San Francisco, which he had not seen before, or at least in such abundance. The overwhelming plentitude of fruits of all kinds included strawberries, cherries, apples, pineapples, bananas, figs, peaches, mangoes, pears, grapes, oranges, and watermelon. He also relates what he ate for his daily meals and the prices of food. Wine was widely available, which "…they drink here as they would water in the East…" 11: 83. Mansfield periodically visited his brother and sister-in-law, Jera (b. c.1825) and Nellie Mansfield (b. c.1836), who had moved to Napa several years before his arrival. In Napa, they planted a vineyard, where Mansfield was first exposed to the blossoming wine culture in California.

Mansfield became acquainted with a number of important people in San Francisco. The one who perhaps had the greatest influence on him was the preacher Thomas Starr King (1824-1864). Mansfield dutifully attended King's sermons every Sunday, and wrote about him profusely, including his impact on the city. He considered King to be one of the greatest minds of the 19th century. When he died on March 4, 1864, the entire city mourned, including Mansfield. Shortly after his death he wrote, "How lovely the Sabbath morning appears to those who were wont to attend Thomas Starr King's meeting there is no use his departure has created a vacuum that cannot be filled in the minds in the hearts of this people -- The Bell Tolls now for church service but it has lost its charm for me. It seems like tolling for the funeral requiem of the great good man rather than an invitation to listen to his heavenly soul stirring thoughts…" 26: 509. With the exception of his fellow spiritualist, Emma Hardinge Britten (1823-1899), Mansfield wrote of no other person with such admiration.

Spiritualism and the general religious community also figured prominently in his correspondence. Although he referred to himself as the "…notorious Spiritual Writing Medium…" 2:51, his being a public person did not always guarantee financial success. He did, nevertheless, procure enough business to send money to his family on a regular basis, via Wells Fargo and Company. Mansfield often gives detailed accounts of these séances, revealing the names and messages of the spirits. Likewise, he describes a variety of individuals who came to him to communicate with the departed, some wanting advice, others seeking comfort in the wake of the death of a loved one. He usually charged five dollars for a one-hour session, and three dollars for a half hour. Even the famous wished to utilize his talents, such as Mary Todd Lincoln (1818-1882). Only once, however, does he describe the process by which a spirit "entered" his body and commenced writing. He wrote communications in many different languages and alphabets, most of which, he claimed to not know. He often spoke of other mediums, especially his friend, the eminent clairvoyant and public speaker Emma Hardinge Britten. After much encouragement, Mansfield convinced her to travel to San Francisco, thinking her talents would earn her great success. Indeed, once in California, her lectures attracted sizeable crowds that rivaled those of Thomas Starr King.

As he was meticulous in his observations of San Francisco, so too did he keep detailed records of his séances. Also owned by the Clements Library are two alphabetized account books that originally belonged to Mansfield, containing entries on séances from December 24, 1860, to March 26, 1883. Volume 1 contains names and dates of séances of people with last names of the letters "A" through "B," but he never finished his entries. Inside the inner cover is a printed advertisement for Mansfield, which includes a lithograph of him. The rest of this volume, as well as volume 2, are blank, with the exception of two pages of the latter that were used in 1933 by an unknown individual.

In addition to these 29 volumes are 13 miscellaneous items that include two letters written in 1874 and 1875 to his son while he studied art in Paris. At this time, Mansfield was living in New York City. Two earlier letters to his daughter are also present, one written in 1859 and the other in 1860. Another letter that dates to 1877 is addressed to a grandson named Bertie. Among these items are also a lithograph of Mansfield and his business card.

The Mansfield collection is very valuable for the chronicling of Civil War era San Francisco, and for the insight it provides into the spiritualist movement. It is an excellent source of common attitudes regarding women and various ethnic groups. Although the lure of wealth drew many enterprising individuals to California, Mansfield's writings, above all, bring to light the many hardships endured by those endeavoring to attain such prosperity.

Collection

Maria Marsh hair album, 1850-1853

1 volume

Between 1850 and 1853 Maria Marsh collected over one hundred hair samples from friends and family. She affixed them to the pages of this handmade album with pieces of fabric or paper, including decorative papers with metallic finishes, some cut into the shapes of hearts. The hair samples are predominantly identified with a number, the name of the individual, and the place of their residence. While the bulk of the entries are from people living in various places in New York state, several from Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, New Jersey, and Michigan are also present. Most of the hair samples are arranged in simple loops, but some are shaped in ornamental hairwork styles. Various shades of hair color are represented, include blonde, brunette, and one red. One entry is for an unnamed infant who died at four months old, and whose hair was too short to be able to loop or work. Some entries include brief lines of verse relating to remembrance.

Between 1850 and 1853 Maria Marsh collected over one hundred hair samples from friends and family. She affixed them to the pages of this handmade album with pieces of fabric or paper, including decorative papers with metallic finishes, some cut into the shapes of hearts. The hair samples are predominantly identified with a number, the name of the individual, and the place of their residence. Pages sometimes include multiple members of the same family. While the bulk of the entries are from people living in various places in New York state, several from Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, New Jersey, and Michigan are also present. Most frequently named places include Otisco, Beakman, and Williamsburg. Some entries for Otisco specify it as Otisco, Michigan, but it is possible some are also from Otisco, New York.

Most of the hair samples are arranged in simple loops, but some are shaped in ornamental hairwork styles. Various shades of hair color are represented, include blonde, brunette, and one red. One entry is for an unnamed infant who died at four months old, and whose hair was too short to be able to loop or work. Some entries include brief lines of verse relating to remembrance.

The volume's covers were crafted out of Thomas Tillotson Superior Cutlery display boards, with small holes where the tableware was originally affixed.

Collection

Maria Marsh hair album, 1850-1853

1 volume

Between 1850 and 1853 Maria Marsh collected over one hundred hair samples from friends and family. She affixed them to the pages of this handmade album with pieces of fabric or paper, including decorative papers with metallic finishes, some cut into the shapes of hearts. The hair samples are predominantly identified with a number, the name of the individual, and the place of their residence. While the bulk of the entries are from people living in various places in New York state, several from Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, New Jersey, and Michigan are also present. Most of the hair samples are arranged in simple loops, but some are shaped in ornamental hairwork styles. Various shades of hair color are represented, include blonde, brunette, and one red. One entry is for an unnamed infant who died at four months old, and whose hair was too short to be able to loop or work. Some entries include brief lines of verse relating to remembrance.

Between 1850 and 1853 Maria Marsh collected over one hundred hair samples from friends and family. She affixed them to the pages of this handmade album with pieces of fabric or paper, including decorative papers with metallic finishes, some cut into the shapes of hearts. The hair samples are predominantly identified with a number, the name of the individual, and the place of their residence. Pages sometimes include multiple members of the same family. While the bulk of the entries are from people living in various places in New York state, several from Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, New Jersey, and Michigan are also present. Most frequently named places include Otisco, Beakman, and Williamsburg. Some entries for Otisco specify it as Otisco, Michigan, but it is possible some are also from Otisco, New York.

Most of the hair samples are arranged in simple loops, but some are shaped in ornamental hairwork styles. Various shades of hair color are represented, include blonde, brunette, and one red. One entry is for an unnamed infant who died at four months old, and whose hair was too short to be able to loop or work. Some entries include brief lines of verse relating to remembrance.

The volume's covers were crafted out of Thomas Tillotson Superior Cutlery display boards, with small holes where the tableware was originally affixed.

Collection

Maryann B. Clark hair album, 1852

1 volume

Maryann B. Clark of Antwerp, New York, created this volume in 1852, inserting nine samples of hair of herself, her father, mother, siblings, other relatives, and possibly friends. The samples are arranged in various styles of ornamental hairwork and affixed to the page with pieces of ribbon or fabric. Each hair sample is accompanied by the individual's name, birth and death date (if applicable), and a verse. In the back of the volume, Clark copied the "Mourner's Lamentation," a poem written by her brother-in-law Joseph S. Foster upon the death of Persis Sabrina (Clark) Foster.

Maryann B. Clark of Antwerp, New York, created this volume in 1852, inserting nine samples of hair of herself, her father, mother, siblings, other relatives, and possibly friends. The samples are arranged in various styles of ornamental hairwork and affixed to the page with pieces of ribbon or fabric. One white lock of hair belonged to Clark's grandmother who died at the age of 90. Each hair sample is accompanied by the individual's name, birth and death date (if applicable), and a verse. Some of the verses relate directly to the individuals, such as those for her deceased brothers and sister whose hair samples are accompanied by poems about the death of siblings. Other poems relate to hair and remembrance. In the back of the volume, Clark copied the "Mourner's Lamentation," a poem written by her brother-in-law Joseph S. Foster upon the death of Persis Sabrina (Clark) Foster.

The volume is handmade. The cover is paper with fabric ribbon sewn along the edges.

Collection

Maryann B. Clark hair album, 1852

1 volume

Maryann B. Clark of Antwerp, New York, created this volume in 1852, inserting nine samples of hair of herself, her father, mother, siblings, other relatives, and possibly friends. The samples are arranged in various styles of ornamental hairwork and affixed to the page with pieces of ribbon or fabric. Each hair sample is accompanied by the individual's name, birth and death date (if applicable), and a verse. In the back of the volume, Clark copied the "Mourner's Lamentation," a poem written by her brother-in-law Joseph S. Foster upon the death of Persis Sabrina (Clark) Foster.

Maryann B. Clark of Antwerp, New York, created this volume in 1852, inserting nine samples of hair of herself, her father, mother, siblings, other relatives, and possibly friends. The samples are arranged in various styles of ornamental hairwork and affixed to the page with pieces of ribbon or fabric. One white lock of hair belonged to Clark's grandmother who died at the age of 90. Each hair sample is accompanied by the individual's name, birth and death date (if applicable), and a verse. Some of the verses relate directly to the individuals, such as those for her deceased brothers and sister whose hair samples are accompanied by poems about the death of siblings. Other poems relate to hair and remembrance. In the back of the volume, Clark copied the "Mourner's Lamentation," a poem written by her brother-in-law Joseph S. Foster upon the death of Persis Sabrina (Clark) Foster.

The volume is handmade. The cover is paper with fabric ribbon sewn along the edges.